Garden Grove Quilting - Longarm Quilting Services & More
SPECIAL FOR FEBRUARY!!!
20% OFF ALL E2E QUILTING
Loose Edge to Edge (E2E) - 1.6 cents/sq. inch
Design lines are quilted 4 - 6 inches apart, no thread changes
Medium E2E 2 cents/sq. inch
Most non-retracing designs fall into this category, no thread changes
Heavy E2E 2.4 cents/sq. inch
Design lines are 1-2 inches apart or multiple areas of retracing, no thread changes
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Light Custom 2.5 cents/sq. inch
No ditch work (SID), minimal ruler work, no background fillers and few thread changes. Includes 1 border
Full Custom 3-8 cents/sq. inch
Includes SID, ruler work, multiple thread changes, background fillers, crosshatching, outlining applique
Heirloom not accepting at this time
Trapunto $5 and up per element
All my quilting includes Superior Bottom Line, MonoPoly, Magnifico or So Fine #40 thread unless you want a specialty thread. Specialty threads include Masterpiece Cotton, King Tut, Fantistico, Metallic, and Kimono silk thread and are charged by the number of bobbins used. Others may be considered on a case by case basis if they work well in my machine.
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Preparing your quilt to be quilted...
1. Square up corners (corners should be 90 degrees) and make sure your quilt lies flat without any puckers within the piece or fullness in the borders. I can fix minor issues but if it is too severe a pleat may have to be made. If the edges of your quilt are not ultimately going to be straight (you are planning swag borders or such), mark where your expected edge will be and wait to trim top until after it is quilted.
2. Iron your quilt top and backing making sure all seams are flat. Pay attention to the direction of seam lines when piecing your quilt if you want any ditch work done otherwise I can do an 'outline' stitch.
3. Trim any threads you don't want showing through the fabric after quilted.
4. Do not attach anything to the quilt top or back - i..e.: buttons, crystals, safety pins, straight pins... however you may use a safety pin to put your name on the top.
5. The backing and batting must be at least 6-8 inches larger than the quilt top dimensions so I can quilt all the way to the edge of the without the clamps getting in the way. This area is also used to test stitching.
7. Do not attach any layers of your quilt together. Each of the layers is put on a different roller of the longarm.
8. Have all your seams on the edges of your top and backing either back-stitched or stay stitch within the seam allowance to prevent the seams from separating when tension is applied for quilting.
9. I prefer Quilter's Dream batting and if you are a customer, I offer you a discount when ordering this batting as an incentive to use it. I reserve the right to refuse any 'unknown' batting as it is difficult to determine the quilting density needed to keep it from coming apart when washing and during regular use. (I also offer a discount on Superior Thread for your personal use as long as you are a longarm customer)
10. Look through the designs and decide how you want to have your quilt done keeping in mind that there are MANY others. I can help you choose a design but I will not decide for you unless you give me carte blanche Quilts can be done in a variety of ways. Allover designs are great on scrappy, pieced quilts. If you have borders, you may choose an allover design for the center and a complementary design in the borders. Some quilts benefit from having some degree of custom work to accentuate their design. If I don't have a pattern you like, I can special order one for you as long as you share the cost of it with me at 50%. One place to look at special designs is: http://digitizedquiltingpatterns.com/
Note: If I find any of the above that still need to be done, I'd be happy to do it myself and charge you (see my additional services available) or I can return the quilt to you (at your expense) for you to finish the work. Muslin will be used to add width or length to any quilt backing that needs it and you will be charged the cost for the amount actually used.
20% OFF ALL E2E QUILTING
Loose Edge to Edge (E2E) - 1.6 cents/sq. inch
Design lines are quilted 4 - 6 inches apart, no thread changes
Medium E2E 2 cents/sq. inch
Most non-retracing designs fall into this category, no thread changes
Heavy E2E 2.4 cents/sq. inch
Design lines are 1-2 inches apart or multiple areas of retracing, no thread changes
*****************************************************************************************
Light Custom 2.5 cents/sq. inch
No ditch work (SID), minimal ruler work, no background fillers and few thread changes. Includes 1 border
Full Custom 3-8 cents/sq. inch
Includes SID, ruler work, multiple thread changes, background fillers, crosshatching, outlining applique
Heirloom not accepting at this time
Trapunto $5 and up per element
All my quilting includes Superior Bottom Line, MonoPoly, Magnifico or So Fine #40 thread unless you want a specialty thread. Specialty threads include Masterpiece Cotton, King Tut, Fantistico, Metallic, and Kimono silk thread and are charged by the number of bobbins used. Others may be considered on a case by case basis if they work well in my machine.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________
Preparing your quilt to be quilted...
1. Square up corners (corners should be 90 degrees) and make sure your quilt lies flat without any puckers within the piece or fullness in the borders. I can fix minor issues but if it is too severe a pleat may have to be made. If the edges of your quilt are not ultimately going to be straight (you are planning swag borders or such), mark where your expected edge will be and wait to trim top until after it is quilted.
2. Iron your quilt top and backing making sure all seams are flat. Pay attention to the direction of seam lines when piecing your quilt if you want any ditch work done otherwise I can do an 'outline' stitch.
3. Trim any threads you don't want showing through the fabric after quilted.
4. Do not attach anything to the quilt top or back - i..e.: buttons, crystals, safety pins, straight pins... however you may use a safety pin to put your name on the top.
5. The backing and batting must be at least 6-8 inches larger than the quilt top dimensions so I can quilt all the way to the edge of the without the clamps getting in the way. This area is also used to test stitching.
7. Do not attach any layers of your quilt together. Each of the layers is put on a different roller of the longarm.
8. Have all your seams on the edges of your top and backing either back-stitched or stay stitch within the seam allowance to prevent the seams from separating when tension is applied for quilting.
9. I prefer Quilter's Dream batting and if you are a customer, I offer you a discount when ordering this batting as an incentive to use it. I reserve the right to refuse any 'unknown' batting as it is difficult to determine the quilting density needed to keep it from coming apart when washing and during regular use. (I also offer a discount on Superior Thread for your personal use as long as you are a longarm customer)
10. Look through the designs and decide how you want to have your quilt done keeping in mind that there are MANY others. I can help you choose a design but I will not decide for you unless you give me carte blanche Quilts can be done in a variety of ways. Allover designs are great on scrappy, pieced quilts. If you have borders, you may choose an allover design for the center and a complementary design in the borders. Some quilts benefit from having some degree of custom work to accentuate their design. If I don't have a pattern you like, I can special order one for you as long as you share the cost of it with me at 50%. One place to look at special designs is: http://digitizedquiltingpatterns.com/
Note: If I find any of the above that still need to be done, I'd be happy to do it myself and charge you (see my additional services available) or I can return the quilt to you (at your expense) for you to finish the work. Muslin will be used to add width or length to any quilt backing that needs it and you will be charged the cost for the amount actually used.